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Néstor Neffer Lasso Zuñiga; Mustefa Abakeno

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Quick answer — what is Néstor Neffer Lasso Zuñiga; Mustefa Abakeno?

Néstor Lasso and Mustefa Abakeno are two highly influential, independent coffee producers known for pushing the boundaries of specialty coffee quality. Lasso, based in Colombia, is celebrated for pioneering experimental fermentation techniques, while Abakeno, based in Ethiopia, is recognized for his exceptional cultivation and processing of high-quality regional lots. Both producers represent the modern shift toward producer-led innovation and direct traceability in the global specialty coffee market.

The real story

Néstor Lasso is a Colombian coffee producer based in the Pitalito region of Huila, who has gained international acclaim for his role in modernizing coffee processing. Alongside his brother, Adrian Lasso, and partner Jhoan Vergara of Finca Las Flores, Néstor operates Finca El Diviso. The trio represents a new generation of farmers who transitioned away from traditional commodity-focused agriculture toward high-end specialty production. By leveraging technical training from institutions like SENA, they have successfully implemented advanced protocols such as anaerobic fermentation, thermal shock, and the use of bioreactors to create distinct, high-intensity flavor profiles that have become staples in global coffee competitions.

The impact of Néstor Lasso’s work is perhaps best illustrated by his presence on the world stage. His farm, El Diviso, has provided the coffee for top-tier competition performances, including a third-place finish at the 2023 World Barista Championship. These coffees are frequently noted for their complex, fruit-forward characteristics—often described as having notes of tropical fruit, strawberry, and floral aromatics—which have challenged and expanded consumer expectations of what Colombian coffee can taste like. His partnership with Jhoan Vergara has effectively merged two family farms into a collaborative hub for experimentation and quality control.

In contrast, Mustefa Abakeno is a prominent producer and exporter based in the Beshasha area of Agaro, Ethiopia. Unlike the experimental, process-heavy focus often associated with the El Diviso model, Abakeno is widely respected for his mastery of traditional and refined processing methods that highlight the inherent terroir of Ethiopian heirloom varieties. Operating approximately 18 hectares of land and managing his own washing stations, Abakeno maintains a high level of control over the entire production chain, from cultivation to final export.

Abakeno’s coffees are frequently sought after by specialty roasters for their clarity, elegance, and distinct regional character. His lots are often characterized by vibrant acidity and nuanced fruit notes, such as marmalade, pear, and hibiscus, which are preserved through meticulous washing and shaded drying techniques. His ability to consistently produce high-scoring, clean, and expressive coffees has made him a cornerstone for roasters looking to showcase the classic, high-altitude profiles of the Jimma zone.

Both producers exemplify the growing importance of the individual farmer in the specialty coffee supply chain. By moving beyond the anonymity of traditional cooperatives, Lasso and Abakeno have established direct relationships with roasters and importers. This shift allows them to capture more value for their labor while providing roasters with the transparency and quality consistency required for high-end retail offerings. Their work serves as a bridge between traditional farming practices and the modern, science-driven demands of the global specialty market.

For the consumer, the names Néstor Lasso and Mustefa Abakeno serve as markers of quality and intentionality. Whether through Lasso’s innovative, fermentation-led profiles or Abakeno’s refined, terroir-driven lots, these producers have fundamentally changed how coffee is sourced and perceived. Their success underscores a broader industry trend where the producer’s specific methodology and farm management are as critical to the final cup as the variety or the region itself.

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