Nghia and Hana

Nghia and Hana are the primary producers operating the 96B farm, located in the Quang Tri province of Vietnam. Their work represents a significant shift in the Vietnamese coffee landscape, moving away from the country's traditional focus on high-volume Robusta production toward the cultivation and meticulous processing of rare, high-quality coffee species. By focusing on Liberica and Excelsa, they have positioned their farm as a specialized node in the global specialty coffee market, challenging conventional perceptions of Vietnamese coffee origins.

The farm's identity is deeply tied to its commitment to research and development. Since 2016, 96B has dedicated extensive resources to the study of Liberica, a species often overlooked in mainstream commercial coffee production. This long-term investment involves not only the agricultural management of the trees but also a rigorous approach to post-harvest processing, which is essential for unlocking the complex flavor profiles inherent in these rare varieties.

In practice, Nghia and Hana employ sophisticated processing methods to differentiate their output. A documented example of their technique involves the anaerobic natural process, where ripe coffee cherries are dry-fermented in sealed polyethylene bags for 120 hours. This controlled environment allows for specific microbial activity that enhances the cup profile, often resulting in distinct notes such as jackfruit, honey, plum jam, and cherry brandy. Following fermentation, the cherries undergo a slow, 30-day drying process, followed by a four-week resting period in parchment to stabilize the moisture content and flavor development.

This approach is part of a broader mission to transform the Quang Tri region into a recognized center for high-quality Liberica cultivation. By prioritizing quality over yield, Nghia and Hana aim to improve the economic sustainability of their farm and the surrounding region. Their work provides a concrete example of how smallholder farmers can leverage unique genetic resources and technical expertise to access premium market segments that value traceability and distinct sensory experiences.

For the roaster and the drinker, the work of Nghia and Hana offers a rare opportunity to experience the potential of non-Arabica species when treated with specialty-grade standards. Their coffee is often sought after by roasters who specialize in experimental processing and rare varieties, as it demonstrates the viability of Liberica as a specialty product. This stands in contrast to the broader Vietnamese coffee industry, which, while massive in scale, is currently facing economic pressures that have led some farmers to pivot toward more profitable crops like durian.

The story of Nghia and Hana is emblematic of the evolving specialty coffee sector in Vietnam. While the country remains the world's largest producer of Robusta, the efforts of producers like those at 96B highlight a growing movement toward biodiversity and quality-focused agriculture. By documenting their specific processing protocols and focusing on rare species, they contribute to a more nuanced understanding of Vietnamese coffee, proving that with the right research and dedication, even under-utilized species can achieve high-end specialty status.