Willem Boot, David Pohl, and Kelly Hartmann

Willem Boot is a Dutch-born coffee consultant, educator, and producer who has become a central figure in the specialty coffee industry. Raised in a coffee-focused family, he founded Boot Coffee in San Rafael, California, a company that provides SCA-certified training and consulting services. His deep involvement in the industry began long before his transition into farming, but his trajectory shifted significantly in 2004 when he served as a judge at the Best of Panama competition and witnessed the emergence of the Geisha variety. This experience sparked a long-term commitment to producing this specific, highly sought-after coffee.

In 2005, Boot purchased forested land on the slopes of the Baru Volcano near Boquete, Panama, establishing Finca La Mula. The farm was developed with the expertise of Graciano Cruz and features over 5,000 Geisha trees. Kelly Hartmann has played a critical role in the operational management of the farm, ensuring the meticulous cultivation and processing required to maintain the high standards associated with the Geisha variety. The farm’s success was solidified when its harvest won the Best of Panama competition, with lots selling for over $100 per pound, cementing its reputation for quality.

David Pohl, an American coffee consultant and former director of coffee at Equator Coffees, is another essential partner in this network of high-altitude production. Pohl is one of the four owners of Finca Sophia, a project located at an extreme altitude of nearly 2,000 meters. The ownership group includes Willem Boot, along with Helen Russell and Brooke McDonnell of Equator Coffees. Finca Sophia represents a rigorous, science-backed experiment in cultivating Geisha in challenging, high-elevation environments, and it has consistently produced award-winning lots that perform exceptionally well in the Best of Panama auctions.

The collaborative efforts of these individuals extend to newer projects, such as Finca La Cabra, which was established to further explore the potential of Panamanian terroir. The management of these farms involves a blend of traditional agricultural methods and modern, data-driven cultivation techniques. By maintaining a presence on both sides of the supply chain—as consultants who teach sensory evaluation and as producers who grow the coffee—Boot and his associates have created a unique feedback loop that informs their approach to processing and quality control.

The impact of these farms on the specialty coffee market is documented through consistent recognition. For instance, in 2015, a Finca La Mula Geisha was ranked as the number one coffee of the year by Coffee Review, achieving a score of 97 points. Similarly, Finca Sophia has secured top placements in both the washed and natural Geisha categories at the Best of Panama competition. These accolades are not merely commercial successes; they serve as benchmarks for the potential of the Geisha variety when managed with precise, expert-led agricultural practices.

For the roaster and the consumer, the work of Boot, Pohl, and Hartmann represents the pinnacle of the 'third wave' coffee movement, where traceability and the specific identity of the farm are paramount. Their farms serve as living laboratories for the industry, demonstrating how altitude, micro-climate, and processing innovation can influence the cup profile of the Geisha variety. The story of these producers is one of continuous refinement, where the goal is to push the boundaries of what is possible in coffee flavor, ensuring that the legacy of the Geisha variety continues to evolve.