What is 'monsooned' coffee?

Monsooned coffee, specifically 'Monsooned Malabar,' is one of the most distinct examples of how processing can completely alter the character of a bean. Historically, this process was an accidental byproduct of the long sea voyage from India to Europe. During the journey, the coffee was stored in the humid, salty air of the ship's hold, which caused the beans to absorb moisture and change significantly in appearance and flavor.

Today, this process is intentionally replicated in coastal warehouses in India. The green coffee is spread out in open-sided warehouses, allowing the humid monsoon winds to circulate through the beans. Over a period of 12 to 16 weeks, the beans are regularly raked and turned to ensure even exposure. They swell to nearly double their original size and lose their vibrant green color, turning a characteristic pale, straw-yellow.

From a grading perspective, monsooned coffee is an outlier. It defies the standard rules of 'freshness' and 'acidity' that define most specialty coffee. Because the process intentionally degrades the bean's original structure, it would be considered a 'defect' in almost any other context. However, in the context of Indian coffee tradition, it is a highly sought-after specialty product with a dedicated following.

For the reader, monsooned coffee is a fascinating study in terroir and tradition. It is not a coffee for those who love bright, fruity, or floral notes. Instead, it is a heavy, syrupy, and deeply savory experience. If you enjoy coffees with low acidity and a bold, earthy profile, monsooned coffee offers a unique window into a historical processing method that has been preserved as a cultural treasure.