What is the 'honey' in honey processing?

Honey processing is a fascinating middle ground between the washed and natural methods. To understand it, one must look at the anatomy of the coffee cherry. Beneath the outer skin (exocarp) lies the pulp (mesocarp), which is a layer of sweet, sticky mucilage. In a fully washed process, this mucilage is completely removed through fermentation and washing. In a natural process, the entire cherry is dried intact.

In the honey process, the outer skin is removed by a machine, but the mucilage is left on the bean. The amount of mucilage left behind can be varied, which is why you often see terms like 'Yellow,' 'Red,' or 'Black' honey. These labels generally refer to the amount of mucilage remaining and the drying conditions: 'Yellow' honey usually has less mucilage and is dried in full sun, while 'Black' honey has more mucilage and is dried under shade to slow the process down.

As the coffee dries, the sugars in this mucilage begin to ferment and caramelize. This process significantly alters the chemical composition of the bean, infusing it with a distinct sweetness and a heavier, more syrupy mouthfeel than a washed coffee. Because the skin is removed, the risk of the 'fermented' or 'funky' flavors sometimes found in natural coffees is reduced, allowing for a cleaner cup that still possesses the complexity and sweetness of a natural.

For the reader, this means that honey-processed coffees are an excellent choice if you enjoy the sweetness of a natural but want the clarity of a washed. They often exhibit notes of brown sugar, honey, and stone fruits. In practice, the honey process requires a high level of attention from the producer, as the sticky beans must be turned frequently to prevent them from clumping together or developing mold. When done well, it is a testament to the precision and artistry involved in modern coffee processing.