BUYING COFFEE

What is the "washed" vs "natural" process controversy?

Quick answer

The washed vs. natural process controversy centers on the trade-off between clarity and intensity. Washed coffee is processed to remove the fruit early, resulting in a clean, bright cup that highlights the bean's origin. Natural coffee is dried with the fruit intact, creating a heavier, fruit-forward, and sometimes polarizing flavor profile that can mask the bean's inherent characteristics.

The real story

Post-harvest processing is the most critical step in determining a coffee's final flavor. The 'washed' process involves removing the coffee cherry's skin and pulp before drying the beans. This method is favored for its consistency and ability to produce a 'clean' cup, where the acidity and terroir of the region shine through without interference. It is the standard for many high-end specialty coffees because it allows the roaster to showcase the bean's unique qualities.

'Natural' processing, on the other hand, involves drying the entire coffee cherry in the sun. As the fruit dries, the sugars and flavors from the pulp are absorbed into the bean. This results in a cup that is often incredibly sweet, heavy-bodied, and bursting with intense fruit notes like blueberry or strawberry. However, because the process is more susceptible to fermentation and inconsistency, it can also lead to 'off' flavors if not managed perfectly.

The controversy arises because these two methods produce such different results that they are almost like different products. Purists often argue that natural processing is a 'shortcut' to flavor, masking the true quality of the bean with the intense sweetness of the fruit. Conversely, fans of natural coffee argue that washed coffee can be boring or one-dimensional, and that natural processing is a valid, creative way to highlight the potential of the coffee cherry.

In practice, neither process is 'better'—they are simply different tools for different outcomes. If you prefer a coffee that is bright, crisp, and tea-like, you will likely gravitate toward washed coffees. If you want a cup that is bold, syrupy, and fruit-forward, you will love natural coffees. The best way to understand the difference is to try both from the same region. You will quickly discover which style aligns with your personal palate.

Sources we lean on
  • · https://sca.coffee/sca-news/read/the-science-of-coffee-processing
  • · https://perfectdailygrind.com/2016/07/washed-vs-natural-coffee-processing/