Farms & farmers tag

El Esquilino

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Quick answer — what is El Esquilino?

El Esquilino is a high-altitude coffee farm located in Las Mercedes, Garzón, Huila, Colombia. It is recognized for its collaborative production projects, specifically focusing on the cultivation of non-traditional varieties like SL28 and the application of advanced, controlled processing techniques such as lacto-fermentation to achieve complex, fruit-forward flavor profiles.

The real story

El Esquilino is a specialized coffee farm situated in the Las Mercedes region of Garzón, within the Huila department of Colombia. Positioned at an altitude between 1,800 and 1,950 meters above sea level, the farm benefits from the high-elevation climate characteristic of the Huila region, which is widely regarded as one of Colombia's premier specialty coffee origins. The farm has gained prominence in the specialty coffee sector through its focus on precision agriculture and experimental processing methods.

The farm is currently noted for its involvement in collaborative projects that emphasize the evolution of specific coffee profiles as trees mature. A primary example of this is the cultivation of the SL28 variety, a cultivar originally developed in Kenya that has become highly sought after in Latin America for its distinct acidity and complex, berry-like flavor profile. The success of these crops is tied to the farm's commitment to rigorous harvest standards, where cherries are hand-picked at peak ripeness and subjected to flotation to ensure only the highest quality fruit enters the processing stage.

Processing at El Esquilino represents a modern, scientific approach to post-harvest handling. The farm has utilized a specific lacto-fermentation protocol, which involves submerging the coffee in a 2% saltwater solution for 24 hours. This technique is designed to suppress pathogens while encouraging the growth of salt-tolerant Lactobacillus bacteria. This controlled fermentation environment is intended to influence the final cup profile, often resulting in enhanced tropical fruit notes and floral characteristics.

Following the initial fermentation, the coffee undergoes a secondary dry fermentation in parchment for an additional 24 hours before being washed. The final stage of the process involves drying the coffee on shaded raised beds. This slow, controlled drying process is critical for maintaining the integrity of the bean and ensuring the moisture content reaches the target of approximately 10%, which is essential for stability and longevity during export.

For the drinker, coffee from El Esquilino is characterized by a sophisticated sensory experience, often featuring notes of yellow tropical fruits, white peach florality, and a complex, berry-like acidity. These profiles are a direct result of the synergy between the farm's high-altitude terroir and the deliberate, data-driven processing methods employed by the producers. The farm's work serves as a case study in how traditional Colombian coffee regions are adapting to global demand for exotic varieties and innovative processing.

As a producer, El Esquilino stands as a representative of the shift toward 'project-based' coffee farming, where roasters and producers work in tandem to refine specific lots over multiple harvests. This collaborative model allows for the iterative improvement of processing techniques, providing roasters with unique, high-scoring coffees while offering farmers a pathway to differentiate their product in a competitive international market. The farm's ongoing efforts continue to contribute to the reputation of Huila as a hub for experimental and high-quality Colombian coffee.

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