Kerehaklu Estate

Kerehaklu Estate, whose name translates to 'shelter by the lake' in old Kannada, is a 275-acre coffee plantation located in the Chikmagalur district of Karnataka, India. Situated at an elevation of approximately 1,145 meters within the Western Ghats, the estate has been producing coffee since 1953. It is currently operated by the father-son duo Ajoy and Pranoy Thipaiah, representing the fourth generation of the family to steward the land.

The farm is defined by its deep integration with the surrounding ecosystem. Over the past two decades, the Thipaiah family has transitioned the estate to fully organic and biological farming practices. This shift has significantly bolstered the local biodiversity, with coffee trees—including varieties such as Chandragiri, Selection 795, Selection 9, Yellow Bourbon, and small quantities of Liberica and Excelsa—grown under a dense canopy of native forest trees, alongside crops like avocado, jackfruit, and wild fig.

Ajoy Thipaiah, a fourth-generation producer, provides the foundational agronomic expertise, focusing on the intersection of traditional cultivation and scientific conservation. His deep knowledge of the local flora and fauna is central to the estate's identity as a place of cohabitation between agriculture and the wild. This commitment to the land ensures that the coffee is grown in a shade-managed environment that prioritizes soil health and ecological balance.

Pranoy Thipaiah, a biology graduate, has brought a modern, scientific approach to the estate’s post-harvest processing. He is particularly noted for his work in fermentation, where he eschews commercial inoculants in favor of 'mostos'—starters cultured from the farm's own native microflora. By collecting coffee cherry pulp, sugar, and local botanicals like lime leaf, fig leaf, and coffee blossoms, he creates unique microbial populations that are used to ferment coffee, allowing the final cup to express the specific terroir of the estate.

This innovative approach has garnered significant attention within the global specialty coffee industry. Roasters and coffee professionals frequently highlight the estate's ability to produce complex, vivid profiles, such as jammy berry notes, roasted walnut, and brown sugar sweetness. The estate's microlots are often sought after for their clean, thoughtful processing, which bridges the gap between traditional Indian coffee production and modern experimental techniques.

For the drinker and the roaster, Kerehaklu represents a shift in how Indian coffee is perceived on the world stage. By moving away from conventional processing and embracing the biological potential of their specific environment, the Thipaiahs have given the estate a distinct voice. Their work demonstrates how a producer can leverage scientific inquiry to enhance the quality of their harvest while simultaneously acting as a guardian of the Western Ghats' fragile biodiversity.